Embroidering-machine.



No. 842,854. PATENTED FEB-{5, 1907.

A. BURGESS & J. G.- & M. 0. RBHFUSS. EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

APPLICATION rum) DEG.14, 190a.

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EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

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N 842,854. PATIENTED FEB. 5, 1907.

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EMBROID-ERING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEO.14. 190s. I e SHEETS-SHEET s.

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No. 842,854. PATENTED FEB. 5, 1907.

A. BURGESS & J. G.. & M. 0. REHFU'SS. EMBROIDE'RING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED $030.14, 1903.

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EMBROID-ERING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED BBQ. 14, 1903.

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No. 842,854. PATENTED FEB. 5, 1907. A. BURGESS & J. G. & M. 0. REHPUSS.

EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEU.14, 1903.

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UNITED I STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ARTHUR BURGESS, JOHN GEORGE REHFUSS, AND MARTIN OSCAR REHFUSS,

OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNORS TO JOSEPH H. BROM- LEY, OFPHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA. I

EMBROIDERING-IVIACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 5, 1907.

Application filed December 14, 1903. Serial No. 185,091.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, ARTHUR BURGESS, a subject of the King of GreatBritain, and JoI-IN GEORGE RnHFUss and MARTIN OSCAR REnFUss, bothcitizens of the United States, and all residing in the city ofPhiladelphia, State of Pennsylvania, have jointly invented certain newand useful Improvements in Embroideringl\Iachines, of which thefollowing is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being hadto the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification.

Our invention relates to embroidering-machines of the general typedescribed in United States Letters Patent to Antoine Bonnaz, No. 83,910,dated November 10, 1868, as modified by the improvements described insubsequent United States Letters Patent granted to Emile Oornely, No.228,445, dated June 8, 1880, and No. 345,886, dated July 20, In theBonnaz machine an embroidered pattern or design was simultaneouslyformed upon and secured to the body fabric by mechanism which producedan embroiderystitch, a well-known universal-feed motion, thereinreferred to, being employed to cause the body fabric to be fed in anydirection required to conform with the design required. In the aforesaidOornely improvements on that type of machine the patentee supplied aseparate embroidering cord or thread and formed a chain-stitch to holdit upon the body fabric, mechanism being pro vided to first throw thesewing-thread around the embroidering-thread by means of an oscillatingarm and then carrying this tying-in thread down throughthe body fabricand forming a true chain-stitch with it by means of a second threadunder the bed-plate of the machine, the two being looped to form thestitch, that arrangement of the mechanism and the tyingin and stitchingformed thereby being shown in the later of said two Oornely patents.That type of machine, however, was capable only of applying embroideringcord. or braid on but one side of the cloth or fabric. V

Our invention has for its object the provision of means in a machine ofthe general type of the Oornely machine, the distinctive function ofwhich is to enable the machine to apply and secure to both sides of thebody fabric simultaneously a like embroideringbraid in like pattern ordesign on each side i and in registerin other words, to produce acord-embroidered fabric reversible because alike on both sides. Toeffect that function and result, we have employed the Cornely,

mechanism which throws the respective upper and lower threads around therespective braiding-cords, and a hook-needle which on its upwardmovement through the body fabric draws with it the lower tying-inthread,

loops it with the upper tying-in thread, and

deposits the loop under the upper embroidering-cord, thus dispensingwholly with aseparate stitch and stitch-thread, and further, utilizingthe upper and lower threads (after each has been caused to pass aroundits adjacent embroidering-cord) to unite said opposite surface cords notonly to each other through the body fabric, but to simultaneously uniteboth to the fabric itself by looping the two together on one sidethereof.

To accomplish these functions and results,

our invention consists of the mechanisms and their combination andarrangement in an organized machine, as will hereinafter be fullydescribed.

Figure 1 1s a side elevatlon of a machine,

showing one form of the invention, parts be- 7 ing broken away toclearly disclose devices beyond. Fig. 2 is an enlarged central sectionof a part of the mechanism below the bed-plate of the machine on lineat, Fig. 3. Fig. 3 is anunder plan view of the mechanism below thebed-plate of the machine looking in the direction of the arrow y, Fig.1.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged end view of the parts be- 1 low the bed-platelooking in the direction of arrow .2, Fig. 1, some of the parts beingomitted to avoid complication, Fig. 5 is a.

detail of the latch. Figs. 6, 7, v8, 9, 10, and

11 are diagrammatic views showing the successive steps in the operationof tying the cord or braid to the upper and lower surfaces of thefabric. Fig. 12 is an end elevation of the machine looking in thedirection of the arrow 10, Fig. 1.

Referring to the drawings, A designates generally the mechanism abovethe bed-plate A of the machines, which mechanism is or may be of any ofthe usual or preferred types disclosed, for instance, by the patentshereinbefore called to attention except as hereinafter described.

Supported in suitable bearings in the upper part of the device is themain drivingshaft A driven by the usual driving-pulleys A as in thepatents referred to, and having secured thereto the worm A which mesheswith a'worm-wheel A carried by the shaft A, which is provided with abevel-gear A below the bed-plate A.

Carried in suitable bearings b b' of the bracket B, projecting fi'om theunder surface of the bed-plate, is the transmitting-shaft B, having atone end the bevel-gear b and at the opposite end the pinion 6 Likewisesupported in suitable bearings 19 b formed in bracket B, is the parallelshaft B having loosely mounted thereon the sleeve 1), carryingbevel-gear b and pinion b the latter intermeshing with the pinion 6whereby motion of the transmitting-shaft B is im. parted to the sleeveb, as will be obvious.

Arranged in prolongation with shaft B is the short shaft B having thebevel-gears b and I)? secured to rotate therewith, and surrounding theshaft B is the sleeve B carrying at one end the large bevel-gear b andhaving secured thereto, near its opposite end, the arm 6 as will best beseen from Fig. 2. The arm 6 carries a stud b, the opposite end of whichis secured to the parallel shaft B and upon said stud is mounted thebevelgear I)", free to rotate thereon.

Rotatably mounted in the bearing C is the sleeve 0, carryingthe disk orsupport 0, a friction-plate 0 being arranged to support a spool andhaving legs projecting through the disk and carrying a part 0 to beengaged by the friction-brake, to be hereinafter described. To the lowerend of the sleeve C is secured the bevel-gear C meshing with thebevel-gear b on the'short shaft B From the construction thus fardescribed it will be seen that if motion is imparted to the shaft B fromthe driving-shaft A it will be transmitted through the described gearingconnected to the bevel-gear C the shaft B at such times beingstationary, and the spool S, carrying the tying-in thread, will berotated to carry the thread contained thereon about the horn D, as willmore fully appear.

Referring more particularly to Fig. 4, it will be noted that the disk 0is provided with standards 0 c projecting upward therefrom, which,converging at their upper ends, form the collar 0 surrounding the upperend of the horn D. Secured to one of the standards c is thethread-carrier 0 having an eye 0 in the end thereof and carrying atension device 0 From this it will be seen that as the spool S isrotated by the means described the yarn or thread from the eye a of thecar rier will be carried around the upper contracted part (1 of the hornD, which normally stands with its upper end in close proximity to theeye (1 in the work-plate, and the end hook-needle, as set forth in thepatents referred to, being at such times below the eye d in thework-plate, will have the tyingin thread wrapped or carried about it,and on the retreating movement of the hook-needle the loop of tying lnthread will be carried above the workplate.

By reference to Fig. 2 it will be noted that the horn D has a centralbore, and through this the cord or braid to be applied to the lowersurface of the fabric is passed from any suitable source of supply, sothat as the tyingin thread is carried about the upper end (1 of the hornand around the hook-needle it is also carried about the cord or braid.As the cord or braid is secured to the lower surface of the fabric, itis desirable that the horn be raised somewhat to carry the cord or braidclose to the surface of the fabric, and this may be done by any suitablemechanism, the form shown comprising a lifting-lever E, fulcrumed at Eand one end thereof carrying a roller 6 held in engagement with a cam Eon shaft B by means of a suitable spring 6, the opposite end of thelever carrying a latch e pivoted at 6 the said latch being adapted toengage a recess 6 in the lower end of the horn. From the detail view ofthe latch in Fig. 5 it Will be seen that on either side of the pivot ethe latch is slotted, as at e e, and that a lo cking-bolt e secures thelatch in engagement with the horn. As the horn thus rises and fallsunder the action of the cam E lever E, and spring e it is desirable thatall slack of the tying-in thread be taken up. To this end the upperportion of the horn has a shoulder d Fig. 2, upon which rests the collard*, Fig. 4, said collar being normally held seated on the shoulder d bya spring (Z so that while it is free to rise with the horn it will alsodrop therewith by a yieldable motion. Pivoted to the standard a is atake-up arm (1, carrying a w ire eye (2 at one end and having itsopposite end in engagement with the collar (1*, from which it w illappear that as tl e thread passing to tlt e eye 0 of the carrier throughtl e eye (2 becomes slack during the rising-and-fallin g motion of thehorn such slack will be taken up.

In the machines of the patents referred to hereinbefore it was necessaryto change the position of the guide above the bed-plate when the designor pattern to he produced was changed in direction. Substantially thesame or similar mechanism is employed in the present invention for thesame purpose; but in addition thereto it has certain other functions andstructure that will now be de- I,

' bevel-gearsf f shaft f gears f fhf", and Y f 9 to the vertical shaft fFig. 1, to the mechanism described in said patents for changing theposition of, the thread-guide. The mechanism above the bed-plate A foreffecting movement of the thread-guide may be the same as that in thepatents or any suitable or preferred character and need not be furtherdescribed herein. In the present invention, however, it is .necessary torotate or change the position of. the horn D on its axis in accordancewith the change in direction of the thread-guide, and this is secured bythe following mechanism: The shaft f is extended below the bed-plate Aand carries at its lower portion a bevel-gear j, which meshes with gearf 12 on the parallel shaft B whereby motionof the handle-arm f forchanging the direction of the guide above the work-plate is communicatedalso to the parallel shaft B Mounted to rotate in bearing G of bracket Bis the bevelgear G, meshing with bevel-gear b on the sleeve B, said gearG being splined upon thehorn D, as shown in Fig. 2, at 9, so thatwhile-the horn is free to move longitudinally with respect to the gear Gfor the purpose already explained it-is caused to partake of any rotarymovement of the gear G.

Motion being given the handle-bar f for changing the direction of theguide above the bed-plate parallel shaft B is rotated and through studb,arn1 b sleeve B and gears b" and G the horn D is simultaneouslyrotated a like amount to maintain the proper relation between it and theguide above the work-plate, as will be obvious.

By reference to Fig.,1 it will be seen that the shaft f of theguide-changing mechanism has projecting through it the pin h, which atits lower end bears upon the small lever h and at its upper end upon theend of the stopping and starting lever H, as in the patents referred to.In this device, however, it is desirable that wl" en the machine isstopped all overrunning of ti: e spool S, carrying tl" e tyingin-thread, should be checked, and to this end a brake is used. Thebrake consists of a lever H, pivoted at 7L2 to bracket B, one end 71? ofsaid brake-lever resting normally above the end of the stop-lever H andbeing forced upon the same by a spring h. The other end of said'lever isprovided with friction-arms adapted to arrest the motion of the disk cand the spool S when the spring is at liberty to act.

While the above details of construction have been. selected -anddescribed as embodying one of the many forms by which the presentinvention may be carried out, it is to be understood that we do notintend to limit the invention in this respect, as details of arrangementand construction may be greatly varied within the scope thereof.

The operation of the invention may be described as follows with respectto Figs. 6 to 10, which successively illustrate the general relation ofthe upper and lower cords or braids, the positions assumed by the upperand lower thread-carriers, horns, and hookneedle during the process oftying the cord or braid to the upper and lower surfaces of the fabric.In said figures, K denotes the upper horn; is, the upper thread-carrier;W, the upper embroidering-braid; 763, the hook-needle; 764, the uppertying-in thread; D, the

'lower horn; Z, the lower embroidering-braid;

Z, the lower thread-carrier; Z the lower tying-in thread, and Mrepresents the fabric, to the opposite faces of which theembroidering-braids are to be secured. The universal-feed device is notdisclosed in these figures to avoid complication. Starting with Fig. 6,the horn-needle is shown as having started upward with the lowertying-in thread engaged by its hook, the said tying-in thread havingbeen passed around the needle and lower horn: As the needle ascends,Fig. 7, it takes the loop of the lower tying-in thread through thefabric M and, Fig. 8, through the loop "a, previously formed by theupper thread-carrier 1c, passing around the upper horn and upper braid,the parts being then in position at the end of the upward movement ofthe needle in, as in Fig. 8. Thefeed now takes place, as indicated inFig. 9, the upper thread-carrier moving about the upper, braid and upperhorn, and the needle descends successively, as in Figs. 9, 10, and 1.1,passing through the fabric and below the work-plate close to the upper.end of the horn, whereupon the lower threadcarrier winds the lowertying-in thread about the lower horn and needle, as indicated, and theoperation is repeated, the result being that the upper and lower tyinginthreads are each carried around the embroiderirgbraid on its side of thefabric, and the said threads are then looped together by a loop passingthrough the fabric and binding both. upper and lower braids to the facesthereof.

From the above it will appear that the engaging loops of the upper andlower tying in threads are on one face of the fabric and willsubstantially lie beneath the embroidering-thread on that side, beingthus by it concealed.

Fig. 12 shows the &

in the Cornely patent, No. 405,147, and wherein the part K representsthe horn through which the embroideringthread passes; 7c thethread-carrier secured to the boss 7c, which is secured to the sleeve76*, rotatable through the gears 7r 76", the latter being secured to astud-shaft it and provided with a bevel-gear k meshing with acorresponding bevel-gear 76* on a counter-shaft driven from the maindriving-shaftof the machine, all as well understood in the art and inaccordance with like parts in "the Cornely patent referred to.

Having thus described our invention,what we claim, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is'

1. In a machine for simultaneously securing embroidering -braids to theopposite faces of a fabric, in corresponding design or pattern, thecombination with independent braid-supplying means above and below thebed-plate, and a universal feed above the bed-plate, of means to turnthe braid-supplying device below the bed-plate to cause it to follow thedirection of the universal feed, independent thread-supplying carriersabove and below the bed-plate with means to cause each to wind itsthread about its adjacent ombroidering-braid, and means to draw one ofsaid threads transversely through the fabric and unite it in a loop withthe other of said tying-in threads on the opposite face of the fabric.

2. In a machine for simultaneously securing embroidering-braids to theopposite faces of a fabric in corresponding design or patternthecombination of a horn above and a horn below the bed-plate forconducting an embroidering-braid to the opposite faces of a fabric, athread-carrier above and a threadcarrier below the bed-plate forcarrying tying-in threads about the respective embroidering-braids,means for interlooping the tying-in threads in a loop on one face of thefabric beneath the embroidering-braids, and means for periodicallymoving the horn below the bed-plate longitudinally of its axis.

3. In a machine for simultaneously securing embroidering-braids to theupper and lower faces of a fabric in corresponding design or pattern,the combination of a horn above and a horn below the bed-plate forconducting an embroidering-braid to each of the opposite faces of afabric, a threadcarrier above and a thread-carrier below the bed-platefor carrying tying-in threads about the upper and lower embroideringbraids respectively, a universal feed for changing direction of feed ascalled for by the design or pattern,-means for turning the lower horn tocause it to follow the direction of the universal feed, devices forperiodically moving the lower horn longitudinally of its axis, and meansfor uniting the tying-in threads in a loop on one face of the fabric.

4:. In a machine for simultaneously securing embroidering-braids toopposite faces of a fabric in corresponding design or pattern, thecombination of a horn above and a horn below the bed-plate forconducting embroidering-braids to the opposite faces of a fabric, athread-carrier above and a thread-carrier below the bed-plate forcarrying tying-in threads about the upper and lower embroideringbraidsrespectively, a universal feed disposed above the bed-plate, means forturning the lower horn to follow the movement of the universal feed, ahook-needle disposed above the bed-plate and means for reciprocatingsaid hook-needle to cause it to loop the tying-in threads together.

5. In a machine for simultaneously securing embroidering-braids toopposite faces of a fabric in corresponding design or pattern, thecombination of a horn above and a horn below the bed-plate forconducting embroidering-braids to the opposite faces of a fabric, athread-carrier above and a thread-carrier below the bed-plate forcarrying tying-in threads about the upper and lower embroideringbraidsrespectively, a universal feed and hand-operative means for adjustingthe universal feed, devices operatively connected to the saidhand-operative means for turning the lower horn to follow the adjustingmovement of the universal feed, and a hooleneedle for looping thetying-in threads together.

6. In a machine of the character described, the combination of a hornabove and a horn below the bed-plate of the machine for conductingembroidering-braids to the opposite faces of a fabric, a thread-carrierabove and a thread-carrier below the bed-plate, means for causing saidthread-carriers each to Wind its thread about the embroidering-braid adjacent thereto a hook-needle for looping the threads of the carrierstogether, stopping and starting devices, and a brake automaticallyoperative on stopping the machine to stop the lower thread-carrier.

7. In a machine for simultaneously securing embroidering-braids toopposite faces of a fabric in corresponding design, the combination witha braid-conducting horn above and another below the bed-plate, auniversal feed above the bed-plate, means to cause the lower horn tofollow the movements of said feed and deposit its braid to correspondwith the pattern formed by the upper braid, a threadcarrier above andanother below the bed-plate, means to cause each of said IIOthread-carriers to wind its thread about the embroidering-braid adjacentthereto, means to tighten the pull of the lower tying-in thread on itsadjacent embroidering-braid, and means to draw the lower tying-in threadupward through the body fabric, loop it with the upper thread, anddeposit such loop beneath the upper embroidering-braid.

8. In a machine of the character described,

the combination of a braid-supplying horn, a thread-carrier, a universalfeedand operative means therefor, disposed above the bedplate, abraid-supplying horn and a threadcarrier, disposed below the bed-plate;means for operating the said carrier, comprising a transmitting-shaft,gearing connection be- I tween the said shaft and carrier, means formoving the lower horn in unison with the universal feed, comprising aparallel shaft and gearing connection between said shaft and lower horn;a hook-needle with means to cause it to loop the upper and lower threadson one side of the fabric; and connecting and actuating gearing betweensaid elements to [5 drive them in unison of time and function.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto affixed our signatures this 2d dayof Novemher, A. D. 1903.

ARTHUR BURGESS. JOHN GEORGE REHFUSS. MARTIN OSCAR REHFUSS.

Witnesses;

H. M. MoBURNEY, D. MOBURNEY.

